CAPTAINS REPORT 2023
An exciting year planned ahead for Cambria. After many years of planning and failed starts due to health issues or world events – Covid, Ukraine/Russia war….., Cambria’s deck refit was confirmed for the winter of 2023/2024. Due to issues with Brexit and the new rules for importing Cambria’s teak from storage in Europe into the UK, we decided to use Robbe and Berking Classics in Flensburg, Germany to do the project. Oliver Berking has a wonderful passion with wooden boats, particularly the 12m class. His yard having completed 12’s such as Vanity V, Jenetta, and Sphinx. Olivers shed in Flensburg was intentionally designed to house and work on a 23m, Cambria was to finally fulfill his dream.
There was still a season to maximise before making the voyage north, and what a great season it was! As we planned to be out of the water at the end of the season, we did not haul out in May , we went straight from Nice port (due to Film festival) to Les Voiles d’Antibes and Cambria’s regatta berth. Due to it being the only regatta planned for the season, we had an overwhelming response to the race crew letter, including Michael and Dianne Sears, Margie and Diego. The racing was great and a combination of excellent crew work, dying wind and the rest of the fleet failing to take the warning from last year and missing a gate, Cambria pulled off a fantastic win not only on the water but also on corrected! A number of après racing competitions were also held and everyone participated in such events as rice grain racing, floor cleaning and of course the port swimming race….. great fun.
Happy Dave
Following Antibes and changing out sails to cruising suit, Cambria set sail for Dubrovnik and 10 days cruising southern Croatia and Montenegro. Though we have spent many days cruising Croatia, this was Cambria’s first trip into Montenegro. Though anchorages are limited, it is truly spectacular, particularly the end of the fjord and Kotor. We also found a number of beautifully quiet anchorages outside the fjord, though obviously more exposed. Our last day before disembarking was magic as we set sail outside and sailed Cambria into the fjord following the wind shifts whist dodging cruise ships and ferries!!!! Cambria had a couple weeks in Corfu before the next cruise which was enough time for husbands to get home to see wives and children and also for chefs to injure their ankle…. As a result, we fortunately found a replacement chef at late noticed and Leo’s cruise of the southern Ionian was perfect. The Ionian Sea between Corfu and Zakynthos is one of the best cruising grounds in the med. Anchorages everywhere, flat water sailing and far few restrictions than the western med. This cruise started an awesome period of movement Once we left Corfu, Cambria didn’t really stop until Flensburg Germany, 3500 nm away! After 10 days of sailing, wakeboarding, swimming and of course clubbing, our guests departed in Zakynthos and we immediately left for Cannes where we had to pick up Margaretha, revictual and fuel ready to depart on the 22/08/23. The delivery back to Cannes also highlighted an issue with the main engine alternator belt. We managed to go through two on the trip back to Cannes indicating an alignment issue. We also had an incredible encounter with a family of sperm whales, Mum, Dad and a calf. They showed no fear of us and were happy to hang out for a hour before we left them to it.
We made it back to Cannes by the Friday 18th, and set about preparing Cambria for the trip North, and of course, realigning the alternator to prevent and further belt issues. A further crew cook change on the following Monday, plus picking up Margie, Jean Mich and Louis we were ready to head to sea on Tuesday the 22nd of August. Our plan had always been to make it to Flensburg by the end of September to get into the shed before the northern winter kicked in. So the delivery crew were Chris, Dave, Max, Archie, Alice Eleonore (chef) Margie, Jean Michel Rouve and Louis Kirkman. The trysail was hanked on with staysail and we had our delivery rig set. The watches were 8-12, 12-1600, 1600-2000, 2000-2300, 2300-0200, 0200-0500, 0500-0800.
The forecast, though not favourable in terms of helpful breezes, the weather was not detrimental, so we made good time to Pamla to refuel and then push on before unfavourable system arrived. South of Ibiza we met some heavy thunderstorms which certainly rinsed us well but passed relatively quickly allowing some good sailing towards Gibraltar. Cambria berthed in Queensway Marina Gibraltar on the 29th of August. The crew enjoyed a climb of the rock and Argentinian steak houses as often as possible before we again topped up fuel and left Gib bound for Cascais, Portugal
The prevailing winds along the Atlantic coast at this time of the year are Northerly so picking weather windows is like picking a tide, when its right, you go! We were talking with the shipyard in Flensburg, Jo and Oliver, regularly as the crane for lifting Cambria out of the water was not cheap equipment to have on hold…. The weather gods were smiling, so we let go lines on the 31st for the Atlantic. We were also excited to see for ourselves the Orcas that had been patrolling the area, causing trouble for the smaller cruising yachts.
Cambria’s trip north was motor sailing and generally smooth. We were 3 days to Cascais and a further 3 days to Coruña, making it in time for a certain exam……we had one Orca sighting and numerous whale and dolphins. Wind wise we managed to stay in front of a major system but still had 35 – 40 knots of westerly’s around Finisterre and into the Spanish port of Coruña. Coruña is a favourite port of call before making the Biscay crossing. The towns architecture and sea food is wonderful and Cambria just fits on the fuel berth at slack water!! We departed Coruña with full bellies and some new instruments (violin, ukulele and bass guitar). The Biscay was calm. Not so good for sailing or fuel consumption bat perfect for fishing and we filled the freezer with tuna by the first night out as left the shelf. Thunderstorms again welcomed us to the Lizard and the Cornish coast. We arrived to see a helicopter rescue off a cruise ship at midnight Saturday the 9th of September and torrential rain. Cambria was safely moored between the visitors mooring at the Falmouth Haven Marina. Plenty of time to make the Falmouth working boat races that Sunday afternoon after a long lunch at the Pandora Inn with friends and family of the crew.
We departed Falmouth on Tuesday the 12th of September with a favourable s’westerly breeze and clear skies. We enjoyed a lovely sail up to Start Point before being headed and returning to the engine. After a short stop anchored off Lulworth Cove for historical reasons and to wake up our race crew member Toby, we cleared UK water and made our way towards Ijmuiden and our last fuel stop easily accessible before Flensburg. The UK now does its immigration and customs clearance via its website for recreational yachts. A very different system to what we are used to. We were checked and boarded by a friendly Border Force boat as we approached the channel. The following day with rising thrust bearing temperature, we drifted in the fishing zone of the Traffic Separation Scheme and Max went for a swim to check the props. After removing some fishing line we’d picked up, all was normal, and we continued with Max now able to say had swum in the channel!! Ijmuiden is the seaport for Amsterdam and particularly shallow at low tide, so timing was imperative. We made good time and made the fuel dock at high tide on the morning of the 15th of September. By the time we’d finished fuelling, had a visit from JLVB, with a cheese and Halibut donation, however, by the time we left we got stuck!!! For the next 4 hours we waited before floating again and being able to escape. To add to the day we had an introduction to some over zealous Dutch coast guards who fined our tender driver for not having his life jacket on or kill chord around his leg…….This process took another two hours, so we’d essentially lost 7 hours, and this would result in getting on the wrong side of strong N’easterlies coming down the North Sea, just the direction we needed to go. This was my first adventure into the North Sea by yacht and though the weather is expected, as is the oil/gas platforms and industry; I was completely amazed by the wind turbine farms. They were massive and everywhere, a chart does not do it justice. Marine traffic is restricted to the separation schemes, certainly not the open space once enjoyed by wind powered vessels. Cambria was certainly hampered by strong head winds from this point on, these increased of course as we closed in on Skagen, the most Northerly tip of Denmark at 57,45 degrees N, which is further north than Cape Horn is South (56 degrees S). we often found ourselves making only 1 knot in the right direction! Of course, as we rounded Skagen and headed south the winds followed. To manage fuel, we need to anchor two nights to wait for favourable weather conditions. The last highlight of the voyage was passing under the Danish bridge between Nyborg and Korsor. There is plenty of air clearance, but the first time always makes your heart skip! Early on the 22nd of September we crossed the border into Germany and ran up the German courtesy flag to the beautiful tones of Max and Margie sing the German national anthem, it was also a birthday, so a great day to arrive in port. The Sun came out and were joined by Oliver in his classic motorboat escorting us up the Flensburg Fjord; lines ashore at 1400, all fast 1415 on the 22nd of Septemeber, 30 days after leaving Cannes. 3500 nms. A welcome dinner was put on at Waage restaurant, everyone had a great time with excellent food and company.